Creamless creamy tomato soup

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes (if using), and bay leaf. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the tomatoes with their juice. Using a potato masher, mash until no pieces bigger than 2 inches remain.

3. Stir in the bread and sugar and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bread is completely saturated and starts to break down, about 5 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaf.

4. Transfer half of the soup to a blender. Add 1 tablespoon more oil and process until the soup is smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and repeat with the remaining soup and the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil.

5. Rinse and dry the Dutch oven and return the soup to the pot. Stir in the chicken broth and brandy (if using). Return the soup to a boil and season with salt and pepper to taste.

6. Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with the chopped chives, drizzle with olive oil, and serve.

7. Note: The soup (minus the garnish) can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Warm over low heat until hot; do not boil.

8. Note: If half of the soup fills your blender more than halfway, process the soup in three batches, but do not add more olive oil for the third batch. You can also use a hand-held blender to process the soup directly in the pot.

9. Classic Crouton Recipe: makes about 1 1/2 cups
3 slices high quality white sandwich bread, crusts removed, cut into 1/2 inch cups (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
Table salt and ground black pepper
Adjust an oven rack to the upper middle position and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine the bread crumbs and olive oil in a medium bowl and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the bread crumbs in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet to room temperature. The croutons can be stored in an airtight container or plastic bag for 3 days.